Walnut Wine & Truffle Groves

It's Heeeeeerrrree!

2010-02-04T17:21:00.003+01:00

Wow, time sure flies when you are writing a book! But it's done, at the printer and soon to be on your shelves (March).
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Whet your appetites!

2009-09-23T16:41:00.002+02:00

Recipes are often treasured heirlooms, passed on from generation to generation, tweaked here and there to current family tastes. The aperitif of choice in the Dordogne is this sweet dark wine made from green walnuts picked between La Fete de St. Jean (June 24) and Bastille Day (July 14). Green walnuts are not a different variety, but rather immature walnuts whose hard shells have not yet formed. It’s the smooth green skin and soft interior gives the elixir its unique flavor. There are hundreds of family recipes in the Dordogne (each claiming to be the very best, of course) but most agree the longer it sits in the cupboard the better…and it’s worth the wait! Here is the typical recipe, but we’ve added some suggestions so you can start your own family tradition. Sante!

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Traditional ingredients

40 young green walnuts, quartered
5 quarts (4.74 liters) dry red wine
2 pounds (1 kg) Sugar
1 quart (1 liter) brandy

Options

1 teaspoon nutmeg
4 Cloves
1 Vanilla bean, split in half
Zest of one small mandarin

Place the quartered walnuts in a large glass container. Add the red wine and sugar. If using nutmeg, clove, vanilla bean, and zest, add them here. Be careful not to add too much spice as you don’t want to overpower the wine’s flavor. Cover the container tightly and store in a cool dark room or cellar. After six weeks, strain the mixture and add the brandy. Pour into bottles and seal tightly. Let the wine rest for at least six months. Serve in small aperitif glasses before your Dordogne feast.

La Fete de St Jean

2009-06-26T08:15:00.005+02:00

Be it in honor of the harvest or the ancient traditions of the Occitan language, there is always a reason to celebrate in the Dordogne. When you live in a fairy tale, why not?! On June 24, la fete de St Jean heralds the arrival of Summer and one of the sweetest traditions of the Perigord is the making of crosses out of wild flowers to adorn entree doors or barns (to protect the livestock it is said).
THis photo was taken by our friend Roland Manouvrier who made his own cross out of wild flowers. He was a bit miffed at his fellow St Leon neighbors who had not taken such care as he had. "Many of them just made them from their garden flowers" he complained.

I asked him if it really mattered, what kind of flowers, and wasn't the sentiment the same, maybe people don't have time these days to search for wildflowers? "NO!" "You must frolic in the hills and appreciate the liberty and freedom of finding the wild flowers".

Ah, life in a fairy tale.

La Chandeleur

2009-03-24T08:11:00.005+01:00

February 2 is a religious holiday called La Chandeleur (Candlemas). But as it is France, and the stomach ordains many habits, February 2 is also referred to as Crêpe Day. The tradition is to hold a coin in one hand and a crêpe pan in the other, and flip the first crêpe into the air. If the crêpe lands back in the pan, luck and prosperity will follow. Our friend Roland warmly recalls his grandmother’s crêpes and her ritual of asking him to take one to the chickens, to bring them health and lots of eggs throughout the year. “ You know the chickens would only eat half the crêpe,” he revealed to us. Seeking a deeper understanding of these Périgourdine poules, we leaned in and asked why. “Because I ate the other half on the way to the chicken coop.”

Share our dressed up crêpe recipe with friends, family and, if you wish, your chickens.

Chef Laura Goes Molecular

2009-01-21T15:52:00.006+01:00

Chef Laura, my partner in crime in the Dordogne, has started a new concept in her home town of Tampa, FL. Chefs On The Loose, is a done in a day, party/cooking/event space where you roll up your sleeves and enjoy a 'party in the kitchen'. Here is a recent article on Laura and her molecular gastronomy class. Click here for full article.

Photo By Daniel Wallace, St. Pete Times

Snapshots from the Dordogne

2008-11-28T09:26:00.001+01:00

Look Who's Talking

2008-11-28T09:18:00.003+01:00

Though the book is awaiting a publication date, a few people were privy to the manuscript and had this to say about it!

• Jeff Ruby, Senior Food Editor at Chicago Magazine, published by the Tribune
Company, writes: “Lovato and Schmalhorst bring alive a bucolic vision of France that most of us thought was long gone...the various characters that populate the region drift in and out of this marvelous book, upholding familial traditions handed down like jewelry. Each encounter leaves the reader with an ache to seek out these people and break bread with every single one of them.”

• Helen Gillespie-Peck, wine educator, writer and author of Winewoman’s Guide to Bergerac 2008 writes: “I think your book is exactly what is required for visitors to the
Dordogne. Not enough is known about the food and the people of the area. Writers seem to concentrate on what has been written and continually repeat. Your book is something different.”

• James Beard Award winners Cheryl and Bill Jamison had this to say, “Anyone who enjoys food and travel will relish this insider's guide to one of the world's most wonderful gastronomic regions. A trove of delightful tales, tips, and recipes...a delightful book that deserves attention.”

• Nations Restaurant News, a leading source for news stories and trends in the restaurant and food service industries. Southeast Bureau Chief Catherine Russo Cobb shares this endorsement: “This book captures the mouthwatering flavor and essence of a visit to the Dordogne region. A literary and culinary treat, the book entices the reader not only to recreate its culinary treasures through delicious recipes, but it also integrates the area's beauty and culture in such a way that the reader will want to visit and taste the region’s wonders firsthand.”

Sounds like something good is cooking in the Dordogne...check it out!!!

Food Is Everywhere

2008-11-26T14:54:00.004+01:00

Like the language, food is culturally significant in France. Days are planned around meals, shops are closed from noon to 2 p.m. for lunch, and expressions related to food are pervasive. During the research for our book, we documented a few of our favorite expressions but perhaps the one that resonated the most was “Vous avez du pain sur la planche,” (you have some bread on the plank) meaning, "You have your work cut out for you." That's for sure! Here are a few other tasty expression to keep you in the know in the Dordogne.

Un oeil au beurre noir (an eye of black butter) = A black eye

Tomber dans les pommes (to fall into the apples) = To faint

Mettre les pieds dans le plat (to put the feet on the plate) = To put one’s foot in ones mouth

Avoir les foies (to have the livers) = To have cold feet; to be scared stiff

Être au four et au moulin (to be at the oven and the mill) = To be in two places at once

Faire bouillir la marmite (to bring the pot to boil) = To bring home the bacon

Un pot de vin (a jar of wine) = A bribe

Learn more expressions, and read about the French Dining Table in: Tales From The Table: Dordogne Stories.

Don't Miss Domme

2008-11-25T13:32:00.002+01:00

Henry Miller wrote, “Just to glimpse the black, mysterious river at Domme from the beautiful bluff is something to be grateful for all one's life.”

If you do anything in the Dordogne, take a tour of the bastides. These monuments of medieval strife are something to behold and an important part of the local Dordogne patrimony. And take Henry Miller’s advice... visit Domme.

After a steep drive up and into the bastide through the ancient fortifications, you’ll have a renewed appreciation for the builders who lugged these heavy stones straight up the hillside. Dinner with our friend Chef Pascal and his wife Monique at their restaurant on the cliff's edge will let you see the Dordogne the way Henry Miller did. Sorry... to read more about the lovable Pascal and his mysterious culinary ways, you'll have to read the book which includes one of his personal recipes!

Trophee Dominque Lavigne 2008

2008-11-17T09:55:00.006+01:00

Our Good friend Roland Manouvrier, and featured "subject" of our book Tales From The Table: Dordogne Stories (to be published by Perseus Books) has won a coveted prize---The Trophe Dominque Lavigne.

http://www.parisgourmand.com/dernieres_news/dernieres_news/le_livre_gourmand_a_perigueux1.html

The prize Dominique Lavigne, created in 2006, was awarded November 2008, and rewards a producer from the Perigord based on the quality of the products but also the passion to share these products with the public and professionals. Roland produces high quality ice creams and sorbets using unusual flavors (goat cheese ice cream anyone) as well as ingredients he produces himself, such as honey from his own bee hives. He does not sell his ice cream to the public, but rather in high end restaurants. It's worth a taste, I can tell you that.

This prize is presented by the Press Club of the Périgord and journalists make the final decision.

Bravo Roland!!

To read more about Roland and learn one of his grandmother's favorite recipes, as well as one of his own for his fantastic ice cream, read Tales From The Table: Dordogne Stories

The Life Of The Party

2008-04-08T20:31:00.006+02:00

On the day we arrived in La Source Bleue, a wedding had just taken place on the sprawling lawn along the riverbank. We were not surprised. After many summers spent in the hills and valleys of the Dordogne, we were accustomed to dropping in on the village bodega or harvest party. It seems around every corner lives a spirit of celebration that is part of life in the Dordogne. In fact, one could almost argue that life here is THE REASON for the party. In the village of Touzac along the River Lot, down an unmarked lane, this phenomenon is no exception, and after a day with our hostess, the niece of famed French actress Marguerite Moreno, at their family home, it was clear that it was not just wedding guests who danced the night away.

Read more about the magic of the La Source Bleue and the ghosts of parties past, in Tales From The Table: Dordogne Stories to be published by Running Press

My Nuts Are Getting Wet

2008-02-19T18:51:00.010+01:00

Some of our most memorable moments in the Dordogne came from getting lost. On our way to find a walnut farm, we followed one of the myriad of hand-painted signs that mark local farms and purveyors. For what felt like miles we wound through the hills, forests, and down a narrow one lane muddy road until, poof, the signs disappeared. Despite our backtracking efforts (right), we never did find the walnut farm. But we did happen upon the smallest of the Bastides, medieval fortified towns, of the Dordogne called Molieres. It is also one of the unfinished bastide towns and is rumored to have a ghost. When we arrived on a rainy, drizzly fall day, we didn't see a ghost or much of anything for that matter. The streets were eerily quiet, the shops closed up for lunch time, and the lone arcade on the market square seemed to be holding some secrets. We walked through it and on a bench nearby, we spotted a crate of walnuts. We looked at them, curious how they arrived there, and were anxious to see who would rescue them from the increasing rain. Within minutes we heard the familiar shuffle of an old man too tired to lift his knees. In his adorable beret hat and purple sweater, he inched his way toward us (actually toward his walnuts). I grabbed my camera and told Laura, "This is it. This is the photo." Our photographer had stayed back to work on his own book so it was up to me to grab The One!!!. I set the light meter; I asked the nut guy in my best (worst) French if i could take his photo. He said "oui", but refused to stand still. He had another mission. Before I could click, and more importantly, focus, he started moving toward me, saying, in his best English, "Excuse me, my nuts are getting wet."

I ask you...Who can focus after a comment like that?!

Still, I love this (blurry) photo for the memories it brings. And he did rescue his nuts.

Moral of the story: 1. Getting lost is good. 2. Never let the real photographer stay behind. 3. Beware of getting in the way of a man and his wet nuts.

Modern Day Princess

2008-02-17T15:16:00.005+01:00

Though she’s not Snow White, Wilna Wilkinson is a modern-day princess living a luminous life in this riverfront retreat. “Sometimes I have to pinch myself,” she admits in her lilting South African accent.
When she opens her door to us, the warmth of her heart and hearth is felt instantly. Wilna's walls and shelves are filled with paintings, books, and knick-knacks that tell of her years of traveling the globe, but there is no question the Château de Lalinde is her home. Though it looks as if she has lived here all her life, it was only two years ago that fate intervened and altered her life's course. During a holiday with friends who had moved in nearby, Wilna suggested they enjoy a nice dinner out. They immediately said, "We know the perfect little place on the river that you will love.’”

Their destination that evening was the Château de Lalinde and her friends were right—it was perfect and Wilna did love it. So much so that two years to the date of the dinner, she moved into the château she now calls home. Kismet.
“My being here is really serendipity,” Wilna says. “I had casually said to my friends that night as we dined under the stars ‘I would move here tomorrow if it were for sale.' The waiter must have overheard me because he said, ‘But Madame, the château is for sale.’” Even though she was not in the market for a castle (is anyone really?), Wilna explains that she was looking for a change. Read more about Wilna's fairy tale and the reasons she loves the Dordogne in: Tales From The Table: Dordogne Stories. due out this fall by Silverback Books.

Be there, Be square

2008-01-20T10:10:00.000+01:00

Touring Europe is admittedly a dream come true, but let’s be honest--- after more than a thousand small villages, they start to look the same. When we first arrived in the Dordogne, we noticed a square checkerboard symbol below certain village names, and there was revived excitement at discovering something new. These marquees told us we were entering a bastide, or medieval fortified town, and while these villages also started to look the same, we realized it was in their conformity that they became unique. These fortified towns, unlike most villages, are laid out in symmetrical (checkerboard) grids around a market square. They exist elsewhere in Europe, but not in such density as found in Southwestern France. The bastides of the Dordogne are living monuments to the medieval strife that plagued the region, as well as a glimpse at early urban planning.

In the Périgord, approximately 25 bastides were built but only 18 were completed. Join us in Monpazier, considered to be the 'perfect' bastide, and meet Arjan and Mirije, a couple who has broken into this deeply guarded community to become successful restaurateurs, and who have become part of the new history of Monpazier. Read their entertaining story of local rituals and friendly neighbors, and of life as a foreigner in one of the most historic villages of France.

Party --Dordogne Style!

2008-01-11T10:38:00.000+01:00

One of the many reasons we love the Dordogne is for its willingness to party. During the summer, not a weekend goes by without a fête (celebration). These convivial scenes bring out locals in waves who are eager to share their music and customs with visitors, whether honoring a season, the wine, the food or an ancient way of life. Flip through the local guides and you will see the calendar is jam-packed with something to suit any taste. We spent an evening in a tiny village (140 people) eating, dancing and singing in the shadow of one of the region's largest castles. Tables lined the village square and we sat elbow to elbow feasting on a meal prepared all day over the grill by locals. Brigitte, whose father-in-law was the mayor of Biron for 25 years, shared her recipe for a unique Dordogne dish. Despite the language barrier and a lot of hand signals, we even managed to make La Mique, and it is included in the book! Meanwhile, back in Biron, bring your own bottle applies, and beware the village punch! Fireworks over the castle culminated the evenings festivities that didn't stop until the DJ played polka music. To participate yourself, sign up for the culinary tour that houses you 30 steps from this one of a kind Bastille Day Party. www.vagabondgourmet.com accompanying photo taken by Ken Cooper

Market Life

2008-01-07T10:10:00.000+01:00

Open air markets are ritualistic in France, and nowhere more so than in the Dordogne is this social and convivial scene brought to colorful life each and every day. Meet Nadine, a grower of 'Mara des Bois' strawberries so sweet and succulent, you can't eat just one. We know! Once a nurse, Nadine says she now takes care of strawberries instead of patients because, "they complain less". (they probably taste better too). Meet a few of these Vagabond Gourmets, many of whom travel hundreds (even thousands) of kilometers each month to the large and small, lively and full-of-life markets that make the Dordogne a moveable feast you'll want to sink your teeth into over and over and over... Bon Appetit!

Wine Fit For A Queen

2007-12-13T16:51:00.000+01:00

Reine, her real name and the word for Queen in French, was destined to live up to her namesake. She grew up among the grapes of the Pécharmant wine producing region near Bergerac and has been nurturing these fields and her family for the better part of 80 years. Not only has her domaine (Domaine du Haut Pecharmant) created a delicious array of wines, but also a thriving family business, and a reputation that precedes her.

“She’s famous,” says Olivier when he introduces his 85-year-old Grandmother as “Madame Roches”. He adds, “You can’t escape the history.”

Looking less like a family matriarch and more like a proud grandmother, Reine squeezes Olivier’s arm and smiles, moving slowly with her walking stick to greet us. Olivier and his brother Didier are the 4th generation to manage the operations of the business, and are unmistakably proud to be a part of this living history. Michel Roches, Reine’s son and Olivier and Didier’s father, joins us in the wine cave for a small tour.

“We have always been aware of the presence of those who have been here before us,” reflects Michel. “My mother transferred to me a magnificent job, and all I had to do was follow her example. Now, my sons take part in this story.”

To read more a this 'queen' and her family's history in the vines around Bergerac, read Dordogne Stories: Tales From The Table.

A Former Presidential Chef & Ambassador Of The Perigord

2007-12-04T13:53:00.001+01:00

“I live almost like my grandmother did,” says Danièle, who once cooked for President Francois Mitterrand.
The house is indeed untouched by time, and she confirms that not much has changed, except for refrigeration and plumbing, and Danièle admits with a laugh that she likes to iron her dishtowels. But the pièce de resistance and our biggest curiosity is the enormous fireplace dominating the room. It is open on both sides, with a slew of cooking utensils at the ready. Danièle stokes the flames, and tells us she designed the fireplace herself with a purpose.
“Cooking is so much more than just eating,” she says. “It is talking and being social, and making people as happy as you can with the food you prepare.”

Danièle picks up a black cast iron pot called a royale and sets it down in the embers. She tells us it is over 100 years old.
When we ask her what she cooks in it, she says, “Everything--- A whole turkey. A lièvre (wild hare). A cake.”
With that she takes a paintbrush, dips it in goose fat and coats the inside of the royale. Within minutes the familiar aroma permeates the house.

His nose knows...

2007-12-02T17:12:00.000+01:00

Roland met us wearing, no joke, a lab coat and a large plastic cap set askew over his thick mop of dark hair. Looking very much the part of mad scientist, he greeted us with a handshake and a cone full of sweet and smooth mandarin sorbet. It couldn’t have tasted and smelled better if we had plucked it from a tree. We looked around for the smoking beakers and a bubbling cauldron but all we saw was a spotless, stainless steel kitchen.

While standing in his office, Roland identifies the brand of the perfume we are wearing, then asks if we have read Patrick Süskind’s novel ‘Perfume’ in which the main character creates the ultimate scent (made from beautiful women) to achieve the ultimate reaction.

“I thought, why not adapt this concept to ice cream,” he says.

Roland's melding of color, smell and texture is nothing short of alchemy, and he believes this sensory fusion is what lets people experience food, not just eat it.

Read more about this alchemist and others who are turning the cuisine of the Dordogne upside down. Also included in the book...a hard to get a recipe (we had to sweet talk him) for Tomato-Basil sorbet... from the magician himself.

Chasing Fairy Tales

2007-12-01T12:45:00.002+01:00

Dreams are often born from the most unexpected places. Ours happened to be delivered by the postman. The postcard arrived nearly 16 years ago and depicted the most beautiful village we had ever seen. Nicole and Claude, a couple we had met in Paris the year before, sent it to us to temp us further into their native France. A village, enveloped in fog, huddled against a cliff at the edge of the Dordogne River, a dilapidated boat tied to its shore. If fairy tales had dreams, they would look like this. On the back of the card, in small black and white print were the words, La Roque Gageac, Dordogne. We knew then we had to find this place.